A Digital Printing Network
What's the best way to apply a decal to coroplast?
Hi all,
I was wondering how you apply a decal/vinyl to Coroplast if the image is 1 solid piece? I can understand that if it was multiple pieces, you'd use some transfer tape to make aligning the images easier, but if it's one solid piece, would you still need transfer tape?
Could the decal be applied like in Steve's Seramark installation video....cut the center of the backing material, hold it down from the center, and squeegee one half as you peel the backing, then do the same on the other half?
Are there any other methods, tips, or tricks? It's a simple square graphic and after applied, I'll cut the coroplast to shape.
Replies to This Discussion
-
Permalink Reply by Jennifer Jackson on -
We typically use the laminator or apply by hand by doing exactly how it is done in the Seramark video. Create your hinge, start with 1 side and squeegee down, then switch sides and do the other. With the laminator, it is the same process, just not by hand :)
-
Permalink Reply by Steven Jackson on -
what she said :-)
-
Permalink Reply by Dennis Dunning on -
We have an RS laminator, which we purchased from IW, and it works very well for applying vinyl to coroplast, foam core, and Aluma Corr. Once you use a laminator, it is hard to imagine why you would want to do it by hand unless the material to be applied is small.
-
Permalink Reply by Roland R. Irish III on -
I've been doing coroplast for years, and one repeat is an Opera House with 24" x 36" sign panels we change, sometimes several times a month. It's all digital print, a 23.5" x 27" panel. WIth 2 people, it can be done without transfer tape. Wet application using Rapid Tach II, great stuff...yes, I've heard about and tried Windex, but the Rapid Tach II seems to dissapate and the vinyl sticks down faster instead of having to wait a day to send the sign out. We've done 4'x 8' panels, split (I only have a 30" printer) and we do those with the 'center hinge' method but without transfer tape. But you can't do it alone...you have to have those extra hands. Use felt squeegees, or teflon paper over regular squeegees. I also have a 'shower stall squeegee' I picked up at the local dollar store-has a thin flexible rubber blade about 12" wide-great for getting the worst of the decal down easily and lightly without air bubbles. For 12" x 18" and 18" x 24" we use a Speed Frame system with the reusable clear transfer tape. Faster than any hand application and you can line it up the first time correctly, so your coroplast can all be precut. But this is for DRY application. With a wet application the speedframe will pull the decal right off a wet surface, won't leave it down.
-
Permalink Reply by Butch on -
I like the stall squeege idea, I actually have an old Mr. Clean Shower scrubber (big oval blue rubber pad with extension handle) that I can disassemble into hand held for laying down vinyl. I wrap it with a teflon cover sheet so it will glide.
-
Permalink Reply by Kevin Hirata on -
-
Permalink Reply by Lucas Crossley on -
The Big Squeege is a great tool! Just make sure you line it the flutes correctly in the coroplast or you'll get bubbles.
I have one and I love it!
-
Permalink Reply by Lucas Crossley on
-
I like to use a roll laminator to do this. Its really quite simple.
- Flip the graphic over and peel back about 1 inch of the release liner.
- Flip the graphic back over and mount the exposed adhesive the coroplast (You'll have to line it up with the coroplast and apply that 1 Inch if that makes sense)
- Put that "leading edge in your laminator.
- Grab the release liner from under neath (make sure your fingers are out of the way)
- Run it through the machine.
This works great!!
Here's a video that is similar only here they are applying overlaminate film to a printed graphic.
http://www.drytac.com/videos/cat/B930A6BF6A76B3D0/post/bKssR73bQqI
I have a nice little Drytac laminator that makes this really easy to do.
Hope that helps!
Have a Profitable Day!
Lucas
© 2013 Created by Steven Jackson - Admin.
