Hey everyone,

I bought a used Roland VS 640 a year ago (first time buying large format printer as i was only experienced with Roland plotters before) second hand and have used it slightly, since i opened up a new shop and working on building customers etc. for the past year.

A few weeks back i had to print a large 32ft sign after printing about 8 ft or so i started getting banding so i decided i would pause do a clean continue to try and not jeopardize the job so it would print a few more ft and banding again, so i decided to cancel the job.  I called the Roland technician but he is more than 2 hours away and would cost an arm and a leg to come see my printer, i explained to him the issue and he said its the dampers, So i ordered the dampers and replaced them last week after replacing the dampers i put everything back together and did a few powerful cleans to get the ink flowing did a test print and my nozzles were missing now (before i changed the dampers i was getting perfect test print just got the banding on large prints) 

I called the technician again and he said that it might be the cap top, so i ordered the cap top and installed it today, still i am getting lots of missing nozzles and even did a bunch of normal and powerful cleans.

The technician said if the cap top fails to work its most likely the head:( 

The test prints are after installing new dampers 5 powerful cleans and trying to print something. The other image is branding and every time i stopped and cleaned and continued printing. 

Please if anyone knows anything or has any idea what could be going on help me out! Thanks in advance god bless you all! 

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The order of remedy is:

Captop

Damper

Head

With all those nozzles missing you must get banding. Banding occurs when missing consistent nozzles across or up and down.

A 48 hour head soak may help recover some of those nozzles, if not then the head is the easiest and fastest way.

Also check the print head surface for damage and or dried ink.

Lastly, one good straight on pix is better than multiple in the same shot.

Hey thanks for the reply,

So before this whole fiasco i was getting perfect test prints not a nozzle missing.

I was getting nice prints except for large jobs with the banding.

the technician said dampers, so i ordered them and installed them.  my first time replacing dampers don't know if i could have damaged something. then i did 5 powerful cleans to get ink flowing and test print was now missing nozzles.  few more cleans left head in solution over night next day still missing nozzles, now getting frustrated call technician he said order cap top and replace it so i did that, now still no luck sometimes i'm missing a few nozzles sometimes all of magenta is missing on one side when i test print. i cant seem to get that perfect test print i had before doing all these repairs. 

When i was replacing dampers i was having a hard time pushing the manifold thing into damper that goes on top could that have damaged dampers and allowing air in? i have attached picture of the damper the black ink one.

so when you say the head is easiest and fastest do you mean i can probably change the head my self? and how would i be able to tell of any damage to the head? do you know aprox cost of new head? 

any tips would be great and thanks in advance this means a lot to me as i am on the verge of going broke from this startup;(

The level of service you require, I cannot provide here due to a Roland restriction. I would never had told a newbie to change dampers - for it is an easy way to destroy the head. Do not know if you removed the ink to move the machine to your location but that is another source of failure, if ink overflowed inside. 

The ink is corrosive, so spill that on the ribbon cables and expect to break the head or at a minimum pop fuses.

Remove the cables and replace them wrong, expect to just break the head. If you do remove number them and put them back exactly the same way.

You see your dampers, that is your issue - the O rings should be black - the after market is grey - those probably came from sign-in-china and are the cheap ones oppose to the $80 ones. If you have the old ones - swap the O ring top and bottom. Also your technician should have told you to lubricate the o rings with cleaning solution that allows for easy insertion and prevents the O ring from slipping and blocking the ink. You need to choke off the ink lines and reseat the dampers or at the minimum the problem color.

The head is around $2400 and I would say no it is not a job for you.

you can search this site, plenty more on this topic. Ink crossing over is an issue.

Thanks for your help,

I am not sure i understand what you mean by O rings should be black? are you saying the dampers i have on now are Chinese? even though i paid about 70$ each damper and was told they are real!

I will try that out in the meantime and try to get my money back if those dampers if you are saying they are not the real deal.

Where did you get those dampers? Check Roland dampers have black O rings. - google Sign-in-China and look at their Roland parts, then dampers, if you can see a picture with their O-rings - they look just like those. Don't get me wrong - they can work, but just like any Roland damper which you lube prior to use - you definitely need to lube the Chinese ones. I have used them and yes they are definitely no more than $20, could be $8. Yes if you did not lube them, every time you try to push them on, they pushed back. every time you tried to push the top on, it pushed up - you then allowed air in. Not saying they will not work, you obviously got 3 to work, and one giving you the time of your life. Lubing with cleaning solution is just like what I see in your picture is that you lubed with ink, and you did not choke off the lines. Very lucking indeed, since ink on the printhead circuit board, blows the head. Clean the old O-rings with cleaning fluid, not alcohol and swap them with the grey ones. If you already tossed them, then make the grey ones work, by lubing them and applying steady downward pressure to seat in the head and when connecting the ink lines.

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