My cyan is bleeding into my yellow when the head is capped. A few cleanings will get rid of it, but always returns after sitting overnight. Replaced capping station with OEM part, and also replaced dampers (not oem) and still the same issue. Could this be from a non oem damper? Photos attached of 4 test prints. You can see how it gets better after each head cleaning. Any advice greatly appreciated!
I have adjusted the flushing as far away as it will allow. Far enough that it starts to cause drop outs in the test print, but still had a significant amount of flooding. I do have 2 of this exact same printer - are there any parts i could swap to try and narrow down the problem?
I am not sure how technical you are, but the next step is to remove the damper and check if it is leaking - also check if the bottom where it sits have ink in the well. If you are not technical or do not know what you are doing you can ruin the entire head if you drop ink on any of the boards.
This issue was occurring, so the first thing we tried was replacing the dampers and the cap station which did not help the issue. As far as checking ink in the well, can you be more specific what to look for? Thanks.
When you removed the damper, did you look inside to see if it was flooded with cyan ink or any ink? That if it occurs does leak out through the head. Are all your dampers facing the same way - the dampers have a left and right side - side does not matter which direction, what matters is that they are all the same. If not when filled it will cause the other to release ink.
With the flushing sometimes you have to start all over if it is out of sync. Changing increments until you have it right. Remember it is correct when the head carriage assembly just touches the lever that raises the captop.
Removed dampers and there was no flooding within the dampers. 2 were turned the opposite direction, which turned all the same direction and re-assembled. Still having the issues, and now it is on both of the yellow test prints. Still trying 1 increment per day hoping to find the sweet spot, but still no luck.
If you flipped 2 dampers - do you not have cross colors in 4 lines?
Excellent - that is the way to do it. Do you remember the color of the O-Rings in your dampers?
Can you post a straight on nozzle test?
Unfortunately I do not recall the color of the o-rings. Here is a photo of a straight on nozzle test.
Grey O-Rings are 3rd party and usually do not sit well. Your nozzle test shows you have no issues there. I would use alcohol to clean the encoder strip for the cross over - a normal cleaning should clear it also for temporary use.
The dampers are 3rd party. The issued started with the OEM dampers, and I replaced with the 3rd party. I will order in some Roland dampers as that is the only thing I haven't done yet. I have cleaned the encoder with alcohol as you had recommend that earlier in this thread. 1-2 cleanings do resolve the crossover, just don't always remember before we print! Will update after getting oem dampers in. Thanks again for your assistance.
No worries - The 3rd party ORings are usually the issue with installation - you did not have that issue. I do not think the OEM dampers will help you here. Put a piece of tape or something to remember to do at least one normal clean before printing. Not sure if you are getting back wash, or improper top suction. Ensure your lines are clear to pump and it may clear on its own. Technically you should be doing a test print in the AM to check the environment for printing (Most do not) so if you do see and there is a cross - a normal should clear. If you turn your printer off at night, when you power up it should auto do a cleaning.