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Diane Hook

Using Eco-Film with a Versacamm

I'm thinking of trying to use cut vinyl for apparel decoration instead
of a print/cut media.  Have any of you ever used Eco-Film from
Imprintables?  I need a vinyl that is safe and durable yet has a finish
as close to screen printing as possible.   

Can I still use Corel and Versaworks software, or do I need something like Cut Studio?

Is there a limit to how many vinyl colors I can layer? 


Thanks for any advice!

Diane

Tags: ecofilm

Views: 24

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Replies to This Discussion

Kevin HirataPermalink Reply by Kevin Hirata on August 27, 2010 at 3:53pm
Diane,

We use a lot of Eco Film from IW. It weeds easily, and the pressure sensitive mylar eliminates the need to mask. You can use Corel and Versaworks, but you need to create a cutline. With Cut Studio, no cut lines are necessary.

Any reason why you'd rather layer the vinyl vs. using something like Quick Print?
Vicki DunningPermalink Reply by Vicki Dunning on August 27, 2010 at 5:59pm
Kevin,
I am actually doing the same thing now with Eco Film because I couldn't generate the color I needed using the VersaCamm and since it was a one color design, I figured it was just as easy to use my Ioline cutter and the Eco Film. I also think that someone else just posted asking about a comparison between Stahl's Fashion Film and IW Eco Film, so others are doing the same, but I don't know their reasons. Also nice not to have to mask. BUT REMEMBER TO CUT IN MIRROR IMAGE!
Diane HookPermalink Reply by Diane Hook on August 27, 2010 at 7:24pm
Interesting...didn't know that Eco Film could be pressed without mask. So with Corel, I would need to export each layer (with cutlines) into Versaworks separately, but if I had Cut Studio with a regular cutter, I wouldn't need cutlines? That sounds intriguing if I ever decided to buy just a cutter.

I'm considering layering vinyl because I am not entirely pleased with how the Quick Print fades after a handful of washings. I think I might test out the Eco Film and see how it compares.

Thanks for the info!
Kevin HirataPermalink Reply by Kevin Hirata on August 28, 2010 at 3:29am
Diane,

You are correct about importing each layer separately. You are also correct about not having to create cutlines with Cut Studio.

I hear what you're saying about QP fading, but understand that layering is a little more time consuming. I've watched a buddy of mine cut and press a two color basketball jersey. In addition to having to switch rolls of vinyl, he has to take the time to carefully align the two colors. Creating a trap helps in aligning the two colors, but it is still an additional step you have to take.
WendyPermalink Reply by Wendy on August 27, 2010 at 7:52pm
We love Eco Film! It saves a lot of money when you have to do one color jobs. We live 20 minutes from IW, so that helps with shipping, too :-) But it is a great product and holds up really well!
Roland R. Irish IIIPermalink Reply by Roland R. Irish III on August 28, 2010 at 9:09am
I do almost as much 'straight vinyl (Stahls and Specialty Materials) as I do print/heat seal on the versacamm. I use an Allen Datagraph for my straight cutting because it will handle ALL the scrap material sizes with no problems, and I can switch out blades and increase blade pressure 'on the fly'...just more convenient. But I have also cut straight white on the versacamm, so it works if you don't have 2 machines.
As for layering...I've done up to 3-4 colors, just don't let any dust or contaminents get on the shirt between colors.
Lining up 2 color numbers is easy if you have the 'mylar back' seethrough material, little trickier with the 'right-read cut' vinyl where you use paper transfer film. Quick hint here...SAVE your mylar adhesive backing, it WILL work on 'right read'
material so you can recycle it! And if you get a silicone 'sheet' (it's a gray flexible textured sheet) from Sanmar after doing your lettering/numbering and peeling off the backing, go over it again with this sheet on it-and you now have a slight texture to the film that duplicates a screenprint job! Also guarantees all edges are stuck down.
I find the mylar/adhesive back material is superior to 'right read/cut' material without the adhesive for fine lettering and detail, AND if you pick up the wrong piece in weeding you can stick it down again. Just don't flip it over...it will never stick to the shirt.
Another note-unless your heat seal product is specifically MADE for 100% COTTON, it won't stick past the first machine washing-it will peel right off. 100% poly or 50/50 is what you need for textiles.
Roland
Vicki DunningPermalink Reply by Vicki Dunning on August 30, 2010 at 8:04am
What do you use to keep the mylar backing from sticking to things when you're going to save it?
Roland R. Irish IIIPermalink Reply by Roland R. Irish III on August 30, 2010 at 8:13am
I just stack it next to my heat seal press...sticky side up. Usually you end up throwing away the top piece when it's time to use it-it collects dirt and dust but keeps the rest of the stack dust free. I bought the clear transfer mylar once from Stahls-it costs MORE than digital print film! So it's cheaper to recycle. And if you use the silicone 'texture' sheet after press and peeling, any 'cut lines' in the mylar that transfer to the image
disappear completely-no need to worry about them. I have reused the adhesive backing many times-until it pickes up a sublimation of the shirt or hat 'dye' then it's time to throw it. I do a lot of full logos on table covers, so I have a LOT of it sometimes stacked up. Recycle, go green, reduce, reuse, etc. etc.-saves you money.
Vicki DunningPermalink Reply by Vicki Dunning on August 30, 2010 at 8:49am
I'm wondering if we save the paper from the laminate, if we can put that between the layers so they don't stick together and then we're recycling two things ;-)
Roland R. Irish IIIPermalink Reply by Roland R. Irish III on August 30, 2010 at 9:25am
I have rolls and rolls of backing from laminate, and yes, it does work to keep the stuff from sticking together...but then it slides all over the counter...LOL>...sticking it together I can stick the whole 'stack' on a box and it stays there. The laminate leftovers make great 'covers' for counters and tables when laying out teeshirts and stuff to keep it clean. Also crumpled up for packing stuff.
irving donaldsonPermalink Reply by irving donaldson on August 28, 2010 at 9:54pm
I also use plenty of ECO and love the fact that I do not have to mask. I also reuse the mask for print/cut media. I have used ECO with great success on all types of materials to include leather. As for machines I use it with a GX24, Ioline 300 and my VC540. I can cut and paste right from corel into cut studio so need to export as if using VW. I also have my VW running the VC and the GX24 so I have many ways to get the job done. I very seldom do layering but have. If too many colors I am going with color print or quick print. For me time is money and with a shop of one I am not looking for anything that will increase time.

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