Marks on right side when printing decals

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Permalink Reply by CYW on March 4, 2011 at 11:08am

Debbie, totally off subject.........but I'm interested how you're going to mask.

Sounds like you're going to have about 1,000 to do.

 

Just wondering if you do them manually or if you use a masking aid, like the Sheeter?

 

I'm floundering around trying to find something time & cost effective.

I guess I can use the laminator but I'm spoiled and don't like changing rolls of media all the time.

 

Looking for suggestions.............

 

thanks

 

 

Diane

 

 

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Permalink Reply by Admin on March 4, 2011 at 11:11am

Diane - I think these might not be masked decals - all of the decal is in an oval in the picture. I guess I should let Debbie reply though....

 

 

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Permalink Reply by Debbie Turner on March 4, 2011 at 11:58am

Yeah, these won't need to be masked. They are just decals that are going to be used for an event.  They don't expect them to last more than that day.

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Permalink Reply by CYW on March 4, 2011 at 12:14pm

I don't think that I understand, Deb.

Do you just give the customer the decal as it?

 

I wasn't talking about laminating them....just masking.

Are you saying because it's an oval, they'll be able to pull down the backing paper and apply them?

 

Geez, I've never considered that option.

 

 

Maybe all my customers are nincompoops?

Or maybe I'm one????

I guess that I just always assumed they would need some sort of masking tape helper to get their stickers applied.

 

You guys are telling me, that in some cases, it's not necessary, aren't you?

 

Wow. Interesting.

thanks

 

 

Diane

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Permalink Reply by Admin on March 4, 2011 at 12:20pm

Diane - unless it has more than one piece in the design that is not attached, we never mask our decals! You have to mask if it is individual items that need to stay regitered to each other but why waste money on masking?

 

We also use a slightly thicker decal material that makes it easier to handle without mask. If oyu are using a low cost economy vinyl it can sometimes be too thin and flimsy for the average user to take off and apply.

 

Try a 3.5 mil material and do not use mask. It will make things faster and easier for everyone.

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Permalink Reply by Debbie Turner on March 4, 2011 at 12:24pm

Yeah.. we are going to weed the circles and just give them to them.  They are just going to peel them off and stick them on the kids shirts at the event.

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Permalink Reply by CYW on March 4, 2011 at 12:35pm

well, shoot

I do use thicker, air release decal material but still I never ever thought I didn't need to mask.

This is wonderful .

The only thing I don't mask is helmet decals because I use that heavy Convex laminate. They're small and very, very stable.

 

but  now I know the regular, unlaminated, stuff can be handed out the same way.

 

 

.............what in the world am I going to do with all this extra time on my hands!

(giggle)

 

Thanks Steve and Debbie.

 

 

 

 

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Permalink Reply by Roland R. Irish III on March 4, 2011 at 1:06pm

I never mask any decals under 10" long, because all you really have is a 'bumper sticker' and did you ever see bumper stickers in retail stores with transfer paper? Been doing it for years this way. Even ovals, rounds, cut out shapes...if they aren't more than 6" or so in both directions we don't mask. I have one account for vehicle stickers that are 13" long by 4" high and laminated-even those don't need a mask-plenty 'rigid' enough for transfering perfectly.

As for heat settings-generally I go for the profile setting (and 90% of the time I'm just using generic vinyl I) but with the cold weather up here in NH I find the print sticks to itself when the roll goes back and forth for cutting-so I have to bump up the heat to 45 degrees or so to get a full 'touch' cure so it doesn't stick. Got tired of either having ruined prints and banners versus having to stand there and hand guide the material so it didn't flop back.

Permalink Reply by Butch on March 4, 2011 at 3:00pm

I don't mask anything that can be easily peeled and applied like a bumper sticker. What I do try to do is cut and separate in the area the has been weeded away. That way a small amount of the backing is left around the edges making it easier to separate the decal from the backing. A good paper cutter serves this purpose well.

 

As far as the marks I will say that they are head strikes. I have witnessed my machine do the same thing on more than one occasion. The times that mine did it was when the material coiled back under the front platen got hung there and caused it to raise up slightly from the platen. Once it advanced enough to free the media the head strike disappeared.

Anytime I print stiff material I now advance to see if it is going to coil or not.

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Permalink Reply by Roland R. Irish III on March 4, 2011 at 3:07pm

When I get large quantity orders that need to be cut up into singles, I lay the printed and peeled vinyl out on my signtable, use a straight edge and razor knife and cut into strips, then chop them up to singles with a desktop paper cutter...for small stuff (and I did 1000 3/4" decals once) I just use scissors. For carshops, dealers that are applying the decals, not handing them out I leave them in 'rolls' and just roll them up and put a rubber band around each bundle. Easier than cutting into individual ones when not needed. Rock bands, some businesses want them all 'square corner cut' with a little backing showing to sell or handout so they get the 'straightedge' cut.

And I charge for it...Discount Labels does, why shouldn't I? My time is my money....I should charge my grandson for the play time he gets with me...LOL....

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