Can anyone tell me the difference in using a 45 versus a 60 degree blade?  Also where is the best price for these?  Thanks.

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A 45 degree blade is the general use blade. Carbide is a stronger material and will last longer. The 60 degree blade is needed for thicker materials where a more aggressive cut angle is necessary. You can use the 60 degree blade for normal use but it will cut deeper and more aggressively.

Hope this helps!

Steven
Thanks for the info. I think I'll buy the 5 packs since it seems I'm going thru blades faster than I thought. By thicker materials, would that mean most types of vinyls and the 45's for heat transfer type materials?

Also, it is not recommended to use the cut blade to make the final cut on banner type materials. Is this a solid rule? It is sometimes difficult to cut 54" banner by hand when it is very long. You have to cut one side then the other.
Ken, What do you mean by using the cut blade to make the final cut on a banner? Are you referring to a sheet cut on the machine?
the sheet cut blade should work fine but will not be lined up with the edge

Half of my cutting is on 2.5mil, half is on 5.0mil. Which blade should I go with?

3.5 and below 45deg

Above consider a sharp 45deg, a double cut with a 45deg or a 60deg single cut

So lately I've had to increase the gpf or gpi cut pressure on all cuts. And now, when I do weeding the vinyl is kind of ripping and not a smooth break. I'm guessing that's just a dull blade.

When I am not getting a clean tear, I often find that it is due to a dull blade. It is hard to see a dull point on a blade unless you can magnify the image. I examine blades with a binocular microscope at 30X magnification. Sometimes I amazed at how worn the point can become. In the grand scheme of things, blades are disposable and relatively inexpensive. I have also found that there is a limit to how much you can increase downward force to make up for a dull blade.

Is replacing a blade on a BN-20 easy enough for a non-technician to perform?

Yes, it is a matter of loosening the brass thumb screw, lifting up the blade holder, pushing the blade plunger, carefully extracting the blade and replacing with new one. 

Always check your blade tip, easy to chip and give you bad cuts. Even brand new blades can chip if wrong force is used.

There is also a replace tools options which will bring the blade over the platen.

As Dennis stated check tip under magnification you usually will see it is chipped, if not chipped then dull, if perforated also check cutting strip for damage. it is normal to increase force over time, if the force is significant then damage blade, usually!

I replaced the blade and the cuts are very crisp now, and require less pressure. I couldn't magnify the old blade or see damage, but it sure had a lot of fuzz/debris all around it. New blade cuts like a dream!

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