Hi all, I've just joined up, came across the site whilst searching youtube for help!

So I've just purchased a BN-20 thats been stood for some time it's only a year old and has only used about 50% of the original inks! But at some point it's been left unplugged and now it's not printing, I've done a head soak for 24 hours, ran through all the cleaning options available on there and managed to get the black printing but no other colours.

So my question is what else can I do to try and revive this print head? I read on one post about drawing ink through with a syringe but I'm not too sure how exactly to do that?

Also I've just ordered a new cap top and dampers, can I change the dampers myself or does this require a tech to get into the service menu or reset anything from a software side of things?

Really appreciate any help, thanks in advance 

John 

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OK one more head soak for 48 hours with OEM cleaning solvent. You must unplug the machine or turn off the main power to prevent self cleaning during the process. Fill top until it just spills over and clamp lines under top to prevent it from seepage. Check top after 24hrs and add more fluid if needed. The top should be full of sludge when done and a few powerful cleanings after. The nozzle test will look worst before better. Understand that the cleaning solution is working its way up through dried ink and releasing it. You are far away from using a syringe and it is used where you are going to be clamping the lines. The BN is the worst machine for maintenance, especially in cold environments and when main power switch is turned off. (always leave on, the secondary switch is optional). DO NOT change the dampers - your problem is not in there - even after a year - unless you have a machine with white ink. As a tech, the quickest and easiest way to repair is to replace the head. As a tech user, all above would be tried if it is a project. The fact you recover one color is hope. 24hr head soaks do not get up high enough in the absorption process. After the 48 hrs - post a nozzle test and I will give you a better diagnosis. When it is time to change the dampers - I will give you a better understanding to avoid causing more damage.

When you get the dampers tell me the color of the O-Rings and the outside color.

Thanks for that really appreciate the reply, I started another head soak this morning so will check and refill as you suggest tomorrow morning, and have the OEM cleaning solvent.

I've got some hopes for this machine with it being so new I didn't think the dampers would need changing but I've already got the dampers here just in case, they are white/clear with grey O-rings I got them from a place in Germany - digiprint supplies they are not OEM.

The setup is with silver, I'm not planning to use the silver I read you could just bypass that by placing a cleaning cartridge in the slot, is that correct?

I'm also not sure the cap top is good so ordered another which should be here in a day or two, when I was doing the clean cycles I'm not 100% sure it was draining from both tubes.

Also the lines running into the print head... a couple of them have lots of air in and ink does not seem to be being drawn through them when cleaning or printing, the only ones I can see actually pumping from is black and silver however the silver isn't coming out of the nozzles on the test print.

White and Silver are the heavier inks that would clog the printhead and require replacement of the top every six months. Yes correct on replacing with a cleaning cartridge and then if require - replace and do 2 powerful cleans to bring it back to the head. It may require 3 cleanings. The Grey O-Rings will not fit properly - so replace them with the black ones from the OEM ones and prime them with cleaning solvent - if needed when that time comes. Yes air in the lines is a problem and powerful cleanings are the only way for a user to remove - the other way is to used a syringe and pull the ink. Patience is a virtue! 

Cheers!

Thanks for that, I'll report back when the head soak is done and I've done a couple of powerful cleans, I'm keeping hopeful! 

Hey, so after a good head soak for probably more than 48 hours, all the black seems to be there, and just a little cyan.

I've done a few powerful cleans and it seemed to bring the ink back to some of the tubes where there was air but in one of the yellow tubes theres still a mass of air which does not seem to be moving at all, I've attached a picture of the nozzle test and also the yellow tube that still has air in.

My new capping top arrived its not OEM and is from digiprint supplies Germany, it doesn't have tubes attached like the OEM version is this still ok to use? I presume I take the tubes off of the the one thats already on and attach them to the new one?

Hope you're well 

John

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OK non OEM top is better than non OEM dampers. So on the tops use the old tubes but cut a slight piece off to ensure a snug fit. The ink is make to draw back to the cartridge if there is no seal. No seal is a loose tube fitting or a bad seal now on the damper. You can pull the tube off at the top and pull the air out to see if ink will come to the syringe - if yes then good, if not then your problem is in the line or the cartridge. Unless you can get enough line to bend and stop from receding back, then when you remove the syringe the ink will run back up. However you do not it can come if pulled. Secure new top, ensure it is flush to the head and see if that works. ensure small spring is on front.

Hi Irving, I replaced the cap top and trimmed some of the old tube off as you suggested, however I still can't draw ink through yellow and magenta there is still air in the lines and when I've pulled ink through the cap top with syringe yellow and magenta don't draw through? 

Both black and cyan are now printing 100% perfect!

Question is can I remove the dampers and pull the air through that way? The air is just before the top of the damper (as in pic above) do the dampers just pull out or are they clipped in some way?

Any help at this point is greatly appreciated before I need to get a tech $$$!

Thanks again for you help with this

Pulling the dampers can be done - I can give you some cautions - but in my post b4 this I explained how you should do it. Remove the line going to the dampers and pull the ink, if it pulls, then you will need to change damper - if it does not pull, then you leak is at or near the cartridge. - read this and then reread before and see if all makes sense.

That all makes sense thank you, one last question if I pull the dampers out (to check they're seated properly) or the line going into the damper to draw the ink will I get a flood of ink when disconnected or will if hold in the dampers and lines? I'm hopefully going to give this a go later today

Also to get to the dampers and lines going into them I need to remove the black panel on top, to remove this do I need to remove all of the black casing from the sides/back first? 

thanks again 

Based on an agreement with Roland, we cannot teach you on how to be a tech. So a service manual is a good start and taking pictures and figuring out what is not in the manual, for is not there and the service schools teach you the rest. The ink is design to recede if a air leak, that is why you see air in your lines. So when you disconnect over the top, you are pulling to see if the ink comes, if it does - then you are good back to the cartridge if it comes and stays and then recede when you release the syringe. Then you need to check lower, damper, top, flushing adjustment, hoses below to pump. You will need to disconnect all lines to remove any dampers (tape lines and take pictures to remember the order) - lines with ink will leak some, so have a papertowel there to catch. Clips on the side will need to be moved passed the raise part. Once the cover is removed - then you can pull the dampers and check the seal - the sides if pressed releases the ink. Careful if you want to put a syringe to it - easy to compromise and a syringe to the head, the same. Black O-rings are your friend.

Irving thanks for all of your help with this, quick update.

In the end I called out a Roland tech, so to start with he replaced the new 3rd party cap top I put on with a genuine roland one... and wow after 1 powerful clean all of the colours started to come out on the first nozzle test... with one more clean all nozzles were firing! I really couldn't and still can't believe the difference an OEM cap top made, that's the last time I'll use any 3rd party parts for the sake of £40 it's just not worth it.

Sadly after some test prints yellow and cyan started to drop off, did another nozzle test and we'd lost a whole column of each, another deep clean and they reappeared, a few more test prints and they went again, at that point he put in new OEM dampers and now its printing 100% (my machine had the black dampers in from new and he told me they'd now been discontinued and he fitted the newer white dampers)

again thank you for all of the advice, greatly appreciated!

Exactly, folks say it does not matter - and it does - You may save money at the expense of your machine, but OEM is the way. Glad it is up - Happy CAMMing!

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