All and Any Issues - Start a discussion - NO CHATS - put it anywhere but a blog and it will be seen

You have 'NOW PROCESSING' start a post - but search this forum - all the years I have been doing this my answers are still the same.

All issues please post to save me from repeating. All members are welcome to answer any post with information gain here, anywhere else, or your personal knowledge. 

Please share with the Community, Happy CAMMing!

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Hi, brand new here..hoping this is the spot.

I have DuraSol sign vinyl and looking for the profile to download into VersaWorks. Can't find it anywhere.

Can you guide me with that?

TIA

Shawn

in the specification it does say use GCVP profile.

my experience is standard run of the mill vinyls use one generic profile  benefits are that there will not be wild colour changes between vinyl make when printing but change the profile and some colours will change.and may not be whats required.

specialty materials casts etc. are ink load sensitive so a special profile may be beneficial .

As stated by Chris, Shawn - use the GCVP profile for durasol. Once you registered, you will have access to the support tab to download the ICC profiles. You can use GCVP for most glossy profiles; MCVP for all matte media, and CCVP for all clear media. I use LBV2 for banners, and for canvas you can use the one for the type you have. I use and like the Satin Canvas.

We have a Roland SP 540i and have noticed when printing tiles to do a large trailer, the colors aren't matching up. We have tried everything from new wipers, cleaning, and printing at a slower speed, but still, the colors are not matching up to where it is noticeable.  Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thank-you,
Chris

I have no business trying to answer this because I’ve never actually printed tiles......but I thought you had to rotate them, (like you would do with carpeting to reverse the nap), when you print tiles.

Wow it took me a while to get this. I think we need to agree we are addressing the same thing. I will go out on a limb and say by tiles you mean a graphic panel printed from the machine - but large. So then if that is fact, what is not matching? So if there is a color variation, then what changed? If all is sent at the same time, (one after the next) or in the same job, then how old is the top, are your lines clear, how old are the dampers? So before you print do a nozzle test, if you are missing any nozzles - that would account for your color shifts. Print one panel and do another nozzle test. If you missing more nozzles or missing the same amount but different, then you are holding are looking at your color issues. What causes the various drops - old tops, clog lines, end of life dampers, I would say etc but those are the main ones. If you want the same results you need the same baseline. I recently was running 80 ten by ten prints but on the fifth run of 6 at a time - back to back I noticed banding. When I did a nozzle test, I had lost 90% of a magenta channel. I had just did a new top, started with all my nozzles, the lines were changed to include going to the waste. I also had did the flushing adjustment so I was surprised to say the least. One choked cleaning removed the air that had built in the lines (somehow) and I was ready to continue the run. It starts with the nozzle test.

Thank-you.I will certainly check that. Is this something that happens when doing large jobs?

It is more likely when doing large jobs and there is an integrity issue somewhere in the chain. Since most of my parts below the head were changed, then where could the leak air entered in one channel. Could be damper or something else like maybe the line into the damper needs to be trimmed to get a better fit. Rubber lines have a tendency to stretch over time. I use clear lines from top to pump and from pump to waste. I like to ensure I can see movement freely when the pump is working. I check for equal flow in both lines for if not then I check the nozzles to see if I have drops on one side of the head. When you see drops and if it is on one side, easy enough to switch the lines and see if you can get the difficulties to switch also. Then you are checking for clogs in lines or T connectors.

Thank you!

I have searched and searched but haven't found anything to fix my issue.  I'm hoping you have an answer Please.  Magenta prints intermittently even after doing a normal clean, medium clean and 3 powerful cleans.  In the picture it shows the final has minimal dot drop, so I went ahead and printed the job first pics come out great so I walk away and when I come back all the rest of the pics are without magenta!  The print head was just replaced last year and I feel like I clean the machine and maintain it more than it is used lately. Help.  VS540    

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Greetings Peggy, So you see your issue. You may start out with healthy nozzles, but it then wears down. Seems to be on the extremes and not in the center. You have dual cmyk and the m channel is affected. So I would start with the captop. How old is it? Then you do machine cleans, are you doing manual cleanings? Is around the head and around the captop cleans and not letting the air in? Then I would have the flushing adjustment checked if the above failed. The tech who changed the head, should have checked that. Lastly, the center nozzles are firing, but do not look healthy - I see noise as in dried ink, but could be picture. Good suction (captop) and a 48 hour head soak, could address those, but do not do that without knowing the very top of my post.

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